The Highs and Lows of 2022

As the end of the year draws nigh and the sun sets over Disaster Mansion, I’d like to recap on what we’ve been up to over the year, what’s given light and what has cast shadows.

January

This is our fifth winter working on the house, we are slowing down a bit, but that’s fine with us. In January we started on some inside projects, first was to build a new partition wall between the boiler room and our bedroom. I over-engineered it with 4×4’s in case we ever needed to hang heavy shelving as well as act as a load bearing wall to support all the partying up above.

I also started to restore our newel post for our stairs, this was pleasant job as I could work on it from the comforts of our kitchen table.

February

I continued to work on the newel post restoration and started to epoxy together wood for our sash windows. I had bought some thermally modified wood (lasts a long time and is pretty dimensionally stable) but it only came in 1 & 1/4″ thicknesses so the wood had to be milling and then epoxied together to get to the requires 1 7/8″ (≈ 48mm). Again I could do this on the kitchen table. There are a lot of pieces to a sash window so it took some time and spread into March.

March

As well as continuing with the sash window wood we started to clean up the inside and removed all the old gas pipes, knob and tube electrical wiring, old screws/nails and random scraps of wood that had been nailed to the beams.

It was during these winter months that I was also doing a lot of research on self-leveling compound and trying to work out the best way to fix our uneven concrete pour, including how many people we needed, what tools were required, how much we could pour at any time etc. We also started again clearing out the trench at the back of the house for our foundation drain. My brother Matthew helped me with this and he earned his keep as well as getting me motivated again.

April

By April I thought we had dug enough out of the trench, but sadly that wasn’t to be so. I think I had previously got french drains and foundations drains confused and after doing a bit more investigation and consulting our architects plans I released that foundation drains needed to be below the top of the footings. We dug a little deeper and found out that our recently installed new footings were in a very poor state, sigh, but more of that later.

As mentioned previously I’ve been planning for months on how to use self-leveling compound to level our floor. Self leveling compound appears to be an ultra fine cement and sand mix which has the consistency of pancake mix so it can flow and self-level. When I say self-level, it will only do this to a degree, imagine when you make a pancake, you have to encourage the batter to fill the bottom of the pan. The reason I hadn’t started on the self-leveling before was that we needed the surface of our concrete floor to be above 50°F and we were only just starting to get these temperatures. It was frustrating that we had to wait until April as this held us back a bit.

Self-leveling can be tricky as you only have about 15 minutes before the mix starts to set, so you need to be fast and have a team who know what they’re doing. Our team consisted of Joe, Deborah, Rob, Brain and Aimee and I can’t thank them enough, everyone was a vital link and they all preformed faultlessly. Thank you!

Because some areas needed in excess of 1″ of self-lever we did multiple pours in these areas, spread over a number of weeks and re-priming each time.

May

In May we tried our hand at re-plastering one of our interior walls with lime using a process called harling, which is basically throwing the lime mortar at the wall. This proved hard work and the results were just about okay. After a bit of research I found an air driven tool that could do the job a lot faster.

We also did another self-leveling pour, the results weren’t perfect but luckily this wasn’t the final pour.

June

June was back to the trenches but some major rain storms caused the trench to collapse again which meant digging out an extra 2′ deep of dirt, wasn’t happy about this.

We also finally finished applying self leveling to the main basement room and the results were very pleasing. We added ice to the water this time to give us a bit longer cure time.

Having finished the floor we thought we would epoxy it and apply a stencil pattern, we ran a poll and the top three you voted for were:

  1. Starry Moroccan Night (8 votes)
  2. Aragon Damask (8 votes)
  3. Duomo (6 votes)

Lastly we enlarged the bathroom widow and reframed the plaster. We did this for two reasons, firstly code dictated that this had to be a means of escape from the bathroom, should you be trapped by any nasty whiffs and secondly, the previous window was miserably small and we wanted a decent amount of light in there.

She came in through the bathroom window…

July

The month started off with a fun project, some brick bat boxes, well they were wood (thermally modified) but painted to blend into the brick house next door. Didn’t see any bat action around them this year as we probably installed them too late, but fingers crossed for next year.

Brick Bat Box!!!

Back in April I mentioned that we had discovered some pretty poor workmanship on our footings. This was the month to repair them and it wasn’t fun. More dirt had to be dug out and working down there was pretty cramped, that said I think we did a great job fixing them and in the end it was worth the extra effort.

Repairing the footings

Lastly we tidied up some door openings. The builders left them very rough so we added shuttering and packed them with stone and lime mortar. The doorway to the boiler room will have an arch so there will be at least one room where you can bang your head on. Form for the arch is pretty much complete, just isn’t on a high priority.

August

Having just finished all the footing repairs it seemed a good idea to re-plaster the exterior walls. In some places it had crumbled away leaving 4 – 5″ depressions into the wall which is not insignificant. Once this trench gets filled in, these walls won’t see daylight for many many decades, so it seemed a good idea to fix these walls correctly and not skimp.

Luckily for us there was a perfect tool for this, the ToolCrete mortar sprayer which was a pretty invaluable tool. The mortar we used for the wall was lime to match the existing mortar and we also added as much stone as we could to fill in the deep areas. Once sprayed on the walls you could push stones into the lime and suction would do the rest. Once the lime work was done we applied a limewash coat to give some extra protection and then resumed work on the foundation drain.

One of the issues we have with being “new to the trade” is that we don’t always know what products are out there and one case in point was my discovery of Dimple board. Before I filled in the trench I didn’t want wet gravel against the wall, but at the same time we couldn’t paint it with a bitumen type water proof coating as lime walls need to breath. Anyway dimple board was a hallelujah moment for me.

Almost Ready to Lay Down Pipe

September

Late August, early September we took a much needed vacation to see family in the UK, first time back in over three years and it was great to see family and friends, eat fish & chips, curry and steak pie, not forgetting mushy peas, bliss!!!!

The remains of September were spent prepping the rest of the trench for the drainage pipe, including removing a long section of our old cast iron waste water pipe.

Back to work

October

Finally finished off the parging and started work on the drainage pipe. We couldn’t find pre-drilled pipe so spent an evening drilling our own holes in the pipe. We measured the distances and assembled the pipe with PVC glue on the lawn and then dragged it into the trench. I think we only made one correctable mistake. Once the pipe was in the trench we could add a bit of gravel below the pipe and check that the gradient was roughly 1/8″ per foot.

Foundation drain update

It was nice to finally be filling in the trench and we had a few kind volunteers to help fill the trench up to the top of the footings. At last you could walk around the trench without it being a trip hazard.

Having filled in the trench to the top of the footing it was time to install the dimple board. Dimple board is a tough water proof membrane with the added advantage of leaving an air gap between itself and the wall which allows moisture to condensate and fall by gravity.

Dimple Board

Once the dimple board was in it was time to fill the trench with gravel. I did eventually have to splash out and buy some more ply for shuttering, but that was worth it, after all we only needed a column of gravel 12″ – 18″ wide. Thank you Giovanna and Derrick who helped us shift the gravel.

National Gravel Day

November

With the cold weather approaching we moved indoors to complete the lime parging/wall repairs. This can’t be done in cold weather so had to get it done soon and we needed this completed before we started framing out the inside for insulation (our winter project). A lot of the time was spent prepping the wall, removing all the plaster and loose and flakey mortar.

Parging Inside Walls

After parging inside was complete we moved outside and eventually started to fill the trench in. We had a lot of gravel to shift so it took many weeks to complete. We also lost Aimee’s Mum, Doris who will be sadly missed.

Filling in the Trench

December

We finally finished the foundation drain, okay there is a bit to do at the front of the house but that will be easy. Phew!!!

Trench Finally Gone


So in reflection I feel this year was an improvement on the last, we had less disappointments, which could be down to us doing most of the work ourselves. We are definitely slowly down, both physically and mentally but I’m hoping that is balanced by future jobs being less physical and more artistic in nature (hence fun).

Here’s to a healthy, peaceful and cheerful 2023 to all of you that have been following our progress. I special call out to Chris and Ian who are constantly giving us positive feedback – thank you, it means a lot.

Lastly we made a small video in which we tried to encapsulate all the above work. I did forget to add John Paul and Brian from the credits, so my apologies. If we’ve left anyone else out please reach out.

Best David & Aimee, 2022

Tips for using self-leveling

These are our tips on applying self-leveling compound and I’d read it only if you are planning to do something similar [editor: It’s boring]. We applied ours over ≈ 800 sq ft of floor so some of the following may not be applicable if your area is a lot less or more.

First off it’s good to understand what self-leveling compound is and what it can and cannot do. For starters it’s basically very fine Portland cement, fine enough that the particles can be suspended in a pancake type mix. So imagine you poured a bucket of pancake mix on a floor, yes it would spread out and self level to a certain degree but don’t expect it to suddenly spread out and cover all of your floor. So if one half of your room is 1″ lower than the other and you poured your bucket of pancake mix on the higher side, don’t expect it to suddenly rush down to the lower side. Sure it will start to move in that direction but that’s all you can expect. Workable time for this product is about 20 minutes max, so no dawdling.

Hopefully these tips will help if you have a similar project, so in no particular order here we go:

  • Get an idea of the levels, i.e. where are the high and low spots. We did this with a laser and created a contour map. If I were to do this again I probably would have just used the Ardex self-leveling pegs. After discovering the product I placed them in a 3×3 foot grid pattern, set the laser at the desired height and cut them down to height.
  • Use the above mentioned self-leveling pegs. Without these it’s difficult to know when you’ve reached the correct depth.
  • Get a laser that creates a beam close to the ground. I eventually bought this one as it could place the beam about 6mm off the floor. The one I was initially using could only go down to about 10mm.
  • If you have deep areas consider doing multiple pours. In fact without a pump and a cement truck we couldn’t have done the main room in one pour (≈ 650 sq ft). If you do multiple pours remember to re-prime each time.
  • Make sure the surface is clean prior to applying the primer and follow instructions exactly.
  • Start early in the morning before it gets too warm. We also added ice to cool down the water as that gave a slightly longer working time.
  • Assemble a team of competent people. I thought a team of 5 was ideal for our job and this is how this is how we split the team up:
    • One person measuring out water.
    • One person mixing.
    • Two person opening compound and adding it with water to mixing bucket.
    • Same two people carrying mixed compound and pouring it on floor.
    • One person spreading and rolling the compound and deciding where the next bucket should be poured.
  • You need your team to work like clockwork so explain to each person what their tasks are and walk them through the process. Once you start mixing you shouldn’t have anyone asking you what to do next.
  • Assemble the correct tools:
    • A paddle mixer with the correct paddle for self leveling compound. We used a Collomix.
    • Serrated rubber squeegee for spreading compound.
    • Spiked roller for removing bubbles and blending in of different batches.
    • Scrappers to remove any unmixed product from building up on the mixing bucket
    • A good serrated knife for cutting open the bags of compound. You’d be surprised what a big difference such a simple tool makes especially when you have to hold the 40lb bag up when cutting it open, multiplied by 50 bags.
    • Spiked shoes which allow you to walk over the poured compound without messing it up. Super slippery though so you have to tread lightly.
    • A couple of 17 gal mixing buckets. Having two meant that we could mix and pour faster.
    • Safety equipment, latex gloves and dust masks.

And that’s about it folks. Ultimately you’d want to get your initial concrete pour as flat as possible. As it was we used about 125 bags of the self leveling compound and at $41 a bag, you’re talking over $5k.

Ultimately I’m glad we got it done, sure there were sleepless nights, but now we have a fantastic flat floor and if anyone reading this wants some tips on this process we will gladly share our knowledge.

Floor finished and flat

Finally finished the self leveling of the main room and we are pretty pleased with it. In total it has taken 115 bags and at $41 a bag that adds up. We just have the bedroom to finish off but this is relatively small so Aimee and I can finish that off. It’s a real shame that Al Riozzi (AJR Masonry) hadn’t ordered a bit more concrete as compared to the self leveling compound, concrete is dirt cheap. The lesson I learnt from this is to get all your expectations written down and signed off.

It might not look like it but the floor is super smooth and we’re very pleased with it. Thanks to every one who has helped with these pours, Joe, Deborah, Aimee, Rob, Jessica and Brian. We all worked really well together and I think we could even hire our services out!!!

Next steps is to apply a protective coat and we have decided to epoxy coat the floor. First coat will be a solid color, after which we’ve decided to apply a stencil pattern followed by a final coat of clear epoxy. It was Aimee’s idea to do the stencil and Aimee got that idea off our friend Deborah who recommended this amazing stencil site, Royal Design Studio. I know is might seem a bit naff but check out the site, the results look fantastic, plus we will probably color them differently depending on room.

Please help us decide our floor pattern by voting for your favourite pattern. Colors are yet to be decided, though we think we will have three colour schemes, bathroom, entry hall and rest of the floor.

(Will help me decide if this is spam or not)

Poll is now closed and here are the top three picks:

  1. Starry moroccan night with 8 votes: Holly, Emily Taylor, Eric, Deborah M.P., Kate McGregor, Brian and 2 anonymous
  2. Aragon damask: 1 (Maria R), 1 (Molly), 1 (Chris), 1 (Eric), 1 (Deborah M.P.), 1 (Kate McGregor), 1
7
  3. Duomo: 1, 1, 1 (Chris), 1 (Deborah M.P.), 1, 1 (Brian Mac)
6

Self Leveling Revisited

This Sunday we got the crew together to do another self leveling pour. The original plan was to do an initial pour to fill in all the deep areas and then a second finishing pour. Well I underestimated the number of bags for the first pour (17 bags ≈ $700) so we didn’t manage to fill in all the deep areas, worse than that after checking the levels with a laser, the deep areas still needed at least 1/2″ of product. This was poor planning on my part and I decided that I needed was some sort of depth gauge to give you some visual indication of how much leveler a particular spot on the floor required.

I looked about a bit and eventually found these handy self leveling pins. They have adhesive on the bottom, so I placed them every 3′ to 4′, set up the laser level and then cut them down to the height of the laser line. They did the a great job though they were pretty expensive at $120 for a box of 250, however, we only used about 40 so I’ll sell the rest.

For this weekend we had 51 bags (≈ $2,100) and I decided to do the whole main room – for self leveling that’s quite a large area. I damned off the bedroom as we needed somewhere to mix.

The results weren’t perfect:

  • It was a hot day and the product set fast. Next time I’ll ice the water.
  • I tried to move the product after it had started to set and caused some unsightly blemishes.
  • We had some leaks where the product was draining into our sub-slab gravel.
  • We ran out of product and didn’t cover the entire area.

That said we will do another final skim coat which will hide all these minor blemishes.

By the way I’m wearing spiked shoes so I can walk over the product without messing it up, pretty damn slippery though.

In the photos you will see a lot of lines on the floor, these are the boundaries of each batch we poured, however, these are smooth so no ridge, just change in color. The final pour should be pretty straight forward and all the different batches will be blended in with the spiked roller, after which we will probably apply a protective epoxy coating.

The photos don’t do it justice and I’m pretty pleased with how this pour went, apart from the odd blemishes (which will be covered in the final pour) it’s finally getting nice and flat. Again a big thanks to Joe, Deborah, Brian, Rob and Aimee.