She came in through the bathroom window…

We had a letter box style bathroom window that needed to be enlarged to meet modern building standards (NY Egress Standards). Code requires an unrestricted window of no less than 5sq ft so we enlarged the gap to allow for a 3 x 2 ft window.

Took a while to remove the extra masonry and then we had to repair a lot of the wall which had previously crumbling away, as can be seen in the last photo.

To repair the window opening I used shuttering on either side of the horizontal and then re-used them on the verticals. For the verticals I added 4-5″ strips of shuttering, filling up behind each with lime mortar (reinforced with chopped fiberglass) and rocks before adding the next strip of shuttering. This was pretty much the only way I could do this without creating large voids etc.

There were some small holes and wrinkles that the plastic made but these don’t matter as there will be at least one more coat of mortar over this. Overall I think it turned out pretty well.

We will also be parging the outside walls so any blemishes there will disappear.

Tips for using self-leveling

These are our tips on applying self-leveling compound and I’d read it only if you are planning to do something similar [editor: It’s boring]. We applied ours over ≈ 800 sq ft of floor so some of the following may not be applicable if your area is a lot less or more.

First off it’s good to understand what self-leveling compound is and what it can and cannot do. For starters it’s basically very fine Portland cement, fine enough that the particles can be suspended in a pancake type mix. So imagine you poured a bucket of pancake mix on a floor, yes it would spread out and self level to a certain degree but don’t expect it to suddenly spread out and cover all of your floor. So if one half of your room is 1″ lower than the other and you poured your bucket of pancake mix on the higher side, don’t expect it to suddenly rush down to the lower side. Sure it will start to move in that direction but that’s all you can expect. Workable time for this product is about 20 minutes max, so no dawdling.

Hopefully these tips will help if you have a similar project, so in no particular order here we go:

  • Get an idea of the levels, i.e. where are the high and low spots. We did this with a laser and created a contour map. If I were to do this again I probably would have just used the Ardex self-leveling pegs. After discovering the product I placed them in a 3×3 foot grid pattern, set the laser at the desired height and cut them down to height.
  • Use the above mentioned self-leveling pegs. Without these it’s difficult to know when you’ve reached the correct depth.
  • Get a laser that creates a beam close to the ground. I eventually bought this one as it could place the beam about 6mm off the floor. The one I was initially using could only go down to about 10mm.
  • If you have deep areas consider doing multiple pours. In fact without a pump and a cement truck we couldn’t have done the main room in one pour (≈ 650 sq ft). If you do multiple pours remember to re-prime each time.
  • Make sure the surface is clean prior to applying the primer and follow instructions exactly.
  • Start early in the morning before it gets too warm. We also added ice to cool down the water as that gave a slightly longer working time.
  • Assemble a team of competent people. I thought a team of 5 was ideal for our job and this is how this is how we split the team up:
    • One person measuring out water.
    • One person mixing.
    • Two person opening compound and adding it with water to mixing bucket.
    • Same two people carrying mixed compound and pouring it on floor.
    • One person spreading and rolling the compound and deciding where the next bucket should be poured.
  • You need your team to work like clockwork so explain to each person what their tasks are and walk them through the process. Once you start mixing you shouldn’t have anyone asking you what to do next.
  • Assemble the correct tools:
    • A paddle mixer with the correct paddle for self leveling compound. We used a Collomix.
    • Serrated rubber squeegee for spreading compound.
    • Spiked roller for removing bubbles and blending in of different batches.
    • Scrappers to remove any unmixed product from building up on the mixing bucket
    • A good serrated knife for cutting open the bags of compound. You’d be surprised what a big difference such a simple tool makes especially when you have to hold the 40lb bag up when cutting it open, multiplied by 50 bags.
    • Spiked shoes which allow you to walk over the poured compound without messing it up. Super slippery though so you have to tread lightly.
    • A couple of 17 gal mixing buckets. Having two meant that we could mix and pour faster.
    • Safety equipment, latex gloves and dust masks.

And that’s about it folks. Ultimately you’d want to get your initial concrete pour as flat as possible. As it was we used about 125 bags of the self leveling compound and at $41 a bag, you’re talking over $5k.

Ultimately I’m glad we got it done, sure there were sleepless nights, but now we have a fantastic flat floor and if anyone reading this wants some tips on this process we will gladly share our knowledge.

Floor finished and flat

Finally finished the self leveling of the main room and we are pretty pleased with it. In total it has taken 115 bags and at $41 a bag that adds up. We just have the bedroom to finish off but this is relatively small so Aimee and I can finish that off. It’s a real shame that Al Riozzi (AJR Masonry) hadn’t ordered a bit more concrete as compared to the self leveling compound, concrete is dirt cheap. The lesson I learnt from this is to get all your expectations written down and signed off.

It might not look like it but the floor is super smooth and we’re very pleased with it. Thanks to every one who has helped with these pours, Joe, Deborah, Aimee, Rob, Jessica and Brian. We all worked really well together and I think we could even hire our services out!!!

Next steps is to apply a protective coat and we have decided to epoxy coat the floor. First coat will be a solid color, after which we’ve decided to apply a stencil pattern followed by a final coat of clear epoxy. It was Aimee’s idea to do the stencil and Aimee got that idea off our friend Deborah who recommended this amazing stencil site, Royal Design Studio. I know is might seem a bit naff but check out the site, the results look fantastic, plus we will probably color them differently depending on room.

Please help us decide our floor pattern by voting for your favourite pattern. Colors are yet to be decided, though we think we will have three colour schemes, bathroom, entry hall and rest of the floor.

(Will help me decide if this is spam or not)

Poll is now closed and here are the top three picks:

  1. Starry moroccan night with 8 votes: Holly, Emily Taylor, Eric, Deborah M.P., Kate McGregor, Brian and 2 anonymous
  2. Aragon damask: 1 (Maria R), 1 (Molly), 1 (Chris), 1 (Eric), 1 (Deborah M.P.), 1 (Kate McGregor), 1
7
  3. Duomo: 1, 1, 1 (Chris), 1 (Deborah M.P.), 1, 1 (Brian Mac)
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Je Suis Très Fatigué

If you remember, last month I had a post titled, “Digging is over“, well you can imagine my joy when I noticed that it wasn’t, a couple of feet deep of muck now sat at the bottom of the previously cleared trench. Not sure how it got there, but the plot thickens!! At it’s deepest it was a little over 2′ deep and even the ladder was buried.

It was caused by a serve storm earlier this week and today I decided to dig it all out and to make the parge coat and a french drain a top priority as I don’t really want to dig it out again. It probably took about 5 hours with a few breaks. Luckily I was in the shade and there was a slight breeze as temperatures today were hitting the low 90F/32C. The hard part was throwing it out of the trench, but fortunately this thankless task is over.

PS. The title of this post comes from a line in a British comedy show, do you know which one? I bet Jason knows.

[Spoiler alert. The answer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kulkUAUEWrs ]

Self Leveling Revisited

This Sunday we got the crew together to do another self leveling pour. The original plan was to do an initial pour to fill in all the deep areas and then a second finishing pour. Well I underestimated the number of bags for the first pour (17 bags ≈ $700) so we didn’t manage to fill in all the deep areas, worse than that after checking the levels with a laser, the deep areas still needed at least 1/2″ of product. This was poor planning on my part and I decided that I needed was some sort of depth gauge to give you some visual indication of how much leveler a particular spot on the floor required.

I looked about a bit and eventually found these handy self leveling pins. They have adhesive on the bottom, so I placed them every 3′ to 4′, set up the laser level and then cut them down to the height of the laser line. They did the a great job though they were pretty expensive at $120 for a box of 250, however, we only used about 40 so I’ll sell the rest.

For this weekend we had 51 bags (≈ $2,100) and I decided to do the whole main room – for self leveling that’s quite a large area. I damned off the bedroom as we needed somewhere to mix.

The results weren’t perfect:

  • It was a hot day and the product set fast. Next time I’ll ice the water.
  • I tried to move the product after it had started to set and caused some unsightly blemishes.
  • We had some leaks where the product was draining into our sub-slab gravel.
  • We ran out of product and didn’t cover the entire area.

That said we will do another final skim coat which will hide all these minor blemishes.

By the way I’m wearing spiked shoes so I can walk over the product without messing it up, pretty damn slippery though.

In the photos you will see a lot of lines on the floor, these are the boundaries of each batch we poured, however, these are smooth so no ridge, just change in color. The final pour should be pretty straight forward and all the different batches will be blended in with the spiked roller, after which we will probably apply a protective epoxy coating.

The photos don’t do it justice and I’m pretty pleased with how this pour went, apart from the odd blemishes (which will be covered in the final pour) it’s finally getting nice and flat. Again a big thanks to Joe, Deborah, Brian, Rob and Aimee.

Harled a bit this weekend, but feeling better now

Harling is the process of throwing a lime slurry onto a wall. I’m guessing the name derived from the word hurl. We’re doing this to replace the flaking lime render on our walls. Lime mortar walls are porous and I believe it’s normal for the surfaces to flake like this over time. These walls probably haven’t been touched in 150 years so they deserve a little love. The harl coat isn’t a finish coat, rather it provides a good textured coat for subsequent coats. As we will be framing out the downstairs to add insulation we will leave the majority of the walls with just this harl coat. Only internal walls will have finishing coats.

It’s a bit of a messy and physical job with lots of the lime ending up on the floor. You have to wear eye protection as the lime is pretty caustic and will burn. Mixing lime is also pretty time consuming as a batch will take a minimum of twenty minutes to mix. Lucky our friends John Paul and Joe and Deborah both lent us decent mixers which made the process a lot easier.

For the mixing process you have to dry mix the sand and Natural Hydraulic Lime 3.5 (we buy ours from the fine people at Limeworks) for 5 minutes, add water and then mix for a further twenty minutes to make the render more workable or ‘fatter’.

We are thinking of buying or hiring something like the Render Gun for the harl coat and pay someone to do the finish coat.

Finally fixing our concrete pour

If you remember last year we had a concrete pour that didn’t go so well. Al Riozzi (AJR Masonry) admitted it wasn’t acceptable but wouldn’t fix it. We could have left it as it was but I felt that it might cause problems in the long term and if we were going to level it, now was the time.

Unfortunately for us we couldn’t fix it until now as self-leveling concrete can’t be used when it’s cold. It’s now warm enough, so today we took a stab at it. I wouldn’t say it’s a hard job but you have to be prepared. I’ve been watching youtube video and reading up about it since last year, but I was still a little nervous as most of these products have a very short flow time (10 minutes in our case). Luckily it went well, I had all the tools, buckets, product lined up etc. but most importantly I had a great team of volunteers helping me, so a big shout out to Joe, Deborah, Rob and Aimee. Every one was assigned a different task and everyone preformed flawlessly.

Music was requested by Joe.

My goal was to fix the floor in two passes, first pass was to fill in all the deep areas (shown as the darker areas in he contour map) and the second pass was to cover the complete floor with a final skim coat, re-priming between coats. My only mistake was not ordering enough product. I ordered 17, 40lb. bags of Henry 565 ($40 a bag, so not cheap) and I thought that would be enough – no where near and I think it covered about half of the first pass. I just ordered another 46 bags so hopefully that will be enough. Thanks for picking it up Joe 🙂

Contour map of our ground floor concrete pour.

Even though we didn’t get as much done today as I expected it was a great trial run and everyone now knows what their tasks are and are willing to help us again. Incidentally all the mixing and product were laid down in under an hour, which was pretty quick. I think we all felt we could have easily have managed twice or three times that amount.

Returning to examine the floor on Sunday we noticed some wrinkling in some areas. Not sure what caused this but will ask the manufactures if they know. Second picture shows how it should look, nice and smooth.

Thanks again team!!!

Digging is over

Last weekend was wet but this weekend was perfect and I finished removing all the dirt from behind the back of the house. It was a pretty hard job throwing the dirt out of the trench especially as the trench kept on collapsing. I did get bonked on the head when some large stones at the end of the trench decided to fall when I was bending over but no blood and and all is good.  Shuttering isn’t great, but will hopefully hold up for a little while.

Next step is to remove any loose mortar on the wall, wash it down thoroughly and then we’ll pay someone to parge it, after which we can install a french drain, fill the trench back in and get our path around the house back This has been a big job and we’ll both be pleased when it’s over.

Not the most interesting of posts, I keep thinking I’ll dig up something interesting but also no.

Coming out of hibernation

We’re slowly coming out of hibernation here. In previous years you’d often find us working in freezing conditions, but now those days are thinner on the ground.

We are making progress on the house but we still have some major tasks to do and one of them is to apply a new lime parge coat to the exterior walls, install a french drain and then fill up the trenches around our house so it’s not an assault course.

Clearing out the back wall has been most tricky as the bank keeps on collapsing and everything has to be carried out by bucket. Luckily I had a guest appearance from my brother Matthew and we made a decent dent in the job. We’ll continue this job as the weather improves.

In other parts of the house we have been prepping to get the floor level but this been delayed due to the cold as the concrete slab and ambient temperature needs to be above 50°F/10°C, fortunately those temperatures are fast approaching and once we have a flat floor we can begin framing it out internally for walls and insulation.

New partition wall

This is the wall between bedroom and boiler room, it’s not a priority but this can be done during these cold months. Our friend Derrick suggested that this could also be a load bearing wall to give the floor above a bit more support, hence the 4×4 studs under each floor joist. This will also give us a solid structure should we ever need to mount anything on the walls of the boiler room.

For purely aesthetic reasons I notched the studs for the horizontal braces (blocking). Currently the braces are loose, but I will secure them with a pocket screw. The wall is probably a bit over engineered, but that doesn’t bother me.

To get a snug fit for the studs, I jacked the floor joists up a bit (< 1/8″). I could then tap the stud in and then lower the joist back down.

Incidentally the word stud is pretty old. Didn’t know that.

Stud is an ancient word related to similar words in Old English, Old Norse, Middle High German, and Old Teutonic generally meaning prop or support.

From Wikipedia, stud wall.

Whilst this has be going on Aimee has been removing hundreds of screws and nails from the floor joists and generally clearing away thick layer of dust and debris that has built up over the years.

I still have add the end studs but I think I’ll leave that until we know how much equipment needs to go into the boiler room, if not much then I may use the slot on the right to make a smallish built in closet for the bedroom, we’ll see. Really trying to maximise every inch of this place.