Patio wall footing

As it was nice weather this weekend we decided to start mixing the concrete for our patio wall. We finished a 12′ section yesterday and today we finished the rest of the left hand side. It took seven trips to the hardware store to pick up concrete as we can’t carry too much in a salon car, at 60 or 80lbs a bag it soon adds up. I think we used just over 30 bags to get this work done and we finished just as it was starting to rain, good timing. Concrete ended up being about 5″ thick and we did add 3/8″ rebar. We’ll leave the right side empty in case we have any excess concrete from the pour.

Inside we’ve been laying the insulation foam down and I’ve spent quite a bit of time cutting back the uneven footings a few inches so that the foam boards fits well. It’s not work I enjoy as it’s uncomfortable, noisy and dusty but I think worth doing. In one of the photos below you can see the marks some insects have made in the dust – I suspect the large tracks are from a centipede. We’re cutting the foam with a combination of Makita track saw, Japanese hand saw and a sharp bladed utility knife.

This week we have the Kingston building inspector coming around to look at our pre-pour work so it will be interesting to see what he says.

Front patio wall

First I didn’t order enough gravel for the ground floor and then I ordered too much. To find a home for it we decided to build a footing for our front patio wall. Digging was the worst part as the ground here is 3′ higher than it should be due to ground floor excavation. With the forms laid we added maybe 5″ of gravel onto which we’ll add 4 – 5″ of concrete with rebar. This is a fun project (and not high priority), but having these footings ready will be useful for when we have the concrete pour as if there is any excess concrete it can be dumped in here. It doesn’t matter that the forms aren’t perfectly straight as this concrete footing will be just below the surface.

The wall won’t be very high at all, maybe six inches max and on top of it we will use local bluestone which we’ve been collecting over the last couple of years. Not sure whether we will go with rectangular or irregular stones (see sample images), it will probably depend on what we have.

Our vision for this patio is to have a nice shaded area to sit out on with a selection of plants in large terracotta planters etc. In front of the patio we thought we’d have a large flower bed stretching the width of the patio with climbing roses going up the balcony supports.

The front of the house has looked messy for a long time so it will be great to tidy it up. The neighbours all say the place looks a lot better and we’ll take that.

Compaction, compaction, compaction

This weekend we started the compaction of our gravel. Big thanks to Don the Johnson who picked up the compactor for us and then went off with Aimee to buy 25 sheets of 4’x8′ x 2″ foam board, 100′ of rebar and 32 sheets of rebar mesh. Bill for that was $1,500 and luckily the price of foam had dropped by $10 a board from the previous week – Covid. What a great help you were Don, big thanks.

So we needed the plate compactor to compact the gravel and to help stop the gravel settling over time. I found this quote from Braen Stone:

Although there are certain scenarios in which stone will tend to naturally compact or hold its place, many materials will begin to settle over time. When this happens, the surface becomes uneven, resulting in the development of gaps, dips and holes

The weakened surface results in unsafe conditions and costly repairs. The only way to prevent these problems from arising is by investing the time in stone compaction. This will create a solid base or sub-base that will hold its form and add to the life and value of your project.

It took Aimee a full afternoon compacting the gravel in the three ground floor rooms and after compaction the gravel had settled by about 3/4″. The finished result does look great, flat, level and pretty smooth. Next step will be laying out the foam insulation, followed by a Stego 10 mil vapour barrier, rebar mesh and radiant heat tubing.

We hired the plate compactor (heavy bugger) from Equipment Rentals NY and had to return it by 7.30am, so a big thank you to George, our neighbour, who met us at DM at 7am with his truck as it won’t fit in our sedan car. One day we will buy some sort of truck or SUV.

[spfx: waving stick around] Gravelus be gonus

Well it was worth a try.

Over the last week we’ve been moving gravel into the ground floor to form a sub-base for the concrete pour. I ordered about 13 cubic yards which equates to about 14 tons in weight. Weather conditions haven’t been ideal as the last weekend we had temperatures in the high nineties with 100% humidity. Now that heat wave has been broken it’s wet.

We’re aiming for about 5″ – 6″ of gravel which we’re leveling with a laser level. Once we get it pretty flat we’ll hire a compactor to settle the gravel and then start on the next layers which will be 2″ of foam insulation and a vapor barrier (plastic sheet). We’ll pay someone to do the actual pour but we’ll likely lay down the rebar mesh and the radiant heating pipework, subject to a bit of reading up.

We were a bit short on the gravel so we ordered 3 cubic yards more and now we have too much. To get rid of it I’ve dug a trench which will be used for a small supporting wall for a stone patio and I’ll use the gravel as a sub-base for that pour.

If you watched the video in it’s full you may have spotted a guest appearance from our cute little car. I’ll leave it up to you to guess which car it is. In case you’re wondering what we are doing at the end of the video we are washing the gravel over a sieve as it was mixed with dirt – like father, like son.

Someone dumped some gravel…

We’re not sure who put it there, but the plot thickens.

Yes it’s our gravel and it will form the sub-base for the concrete ground floor. We ordered 13 cubic yards (about 17 tons) and this should be enough to give us a 5″ – 6″ layer of gravel, main purpose of which is for drainage under the slab.

Shifting it will keep us busy but I think we’ll have it all done by the following weekend. My Dad used to order huge piles of soil, gravel, sand etc. so I’m used to the mental stamina required in moving it! Anyone fancy a workout?

I have to say that we were pretty impressed with the supplier, Denter Sand & Gravel. We ordered lunchtime and when we got to the house this evening it was already there!!!!

How to turn your house into a bungalow

And all in one evening!

This evening we took the staircase down to make it easier for the concrete pour. The new floor will be 4″ lower so this staircase wouldn’t have fitted anyway. It was decently made and we’ll use it as a guide to making the new one. That said the space seems a lot bigger with no stairs so we’ll see and it might be easier to get a certificate of occupancy without one.

So now we have a bungalow, albeit with a huge attic.

It also gave me a chance to beef up some of the footings before the pour. Probably difficult to see from the last photo, but you could stick your hand at least six inches under that supporting wall!!

If I looked sweat drenched, I was. I think it was in the 90s outside with 100% humidity.

Now we have to work out how to heft the stairs out to our garage. Any volunteers?

Sub-floor electrical conduit installed

These past few weekends we’ve been chipping away concrete and putting down the electrical conduit which will carry the mains and low voltage (internet, phone etc.) cables into our house.

Our electrician, Tom Nash, told us what to do so we could save some pennies. I thought it would be a weekend job but it’s been more like three weekends, with at least half of that involving removing concrete from the underside of the footings which wasn’t a fun job, see first and second pictures.

We felt the price increase that Covid has caused on building materials with this little lot of pvc costing close on $300.

Next task before concrete pour is to remove the staircase and do one last repair to the footings.

We have a winner to “What is this object?”

The winner does happen to be my brother Ian, but there was no shenanigans, in fact I would have rather the winner be local as now I have to ship the prize overseas.

Ian’s second guess was

I would say it’s for marking the area to cut out in order to recess the rails in a balustrade, to ensure they are vertical, hence the spirit level

Which is bang on, the device is in fact the LJ-3047 – Telescoping Baluster Marking Tool, made by LJ Smith. To see it in operation I suggest you watch this YouTube video by Matt Weber.

I haven’t used it yet, but I’m sure I will. I think I paid the embarrassingly low price of eBay of $0.99, plus shipping.

Chris, I’ll also send you a pot as you were the only other entrant, Ian can deliver.

What is this object?

I bought this mystery tool a while back. I haven’t used it but it will get used at some point. It’s still in production and is a specialist tool that has a single purpose. Can you guess what it does?

Think about the features listed below, they will help you a lot in identifying what it can do and then it’s particular purpose.

Features include:

  • Spring loaded punch on one end and a spike on the other
  • Bubble level’s on two axes
  • It’s telescoping

Winner receives a jar of our homemade DnA chili sauce. Local winners can pick it up, for others I will ship.

I’ll suppress any winning comments for few days to give everyone a while to think about it.

Sashes of the window go up and down…

Finally finished (ish) with out test sash window. It took a while but was worth making as we made quite a few mistakes and learnt a lot in the process. I won’t bore you with all the details so here are the basics.

First step was the windows bucks, these frames hold the windows and typically would be installed in a masonry wall. In a wooden structure the framing would form the window bucks. Note the tapered window sill, did we need it, not sure. The bucks, window frames and sashes were all assembled using my Dowelmax.

The magnetic sash pockets worked out well and I hope future occupants of the house will appreciate them. In time I’ll probably write a maintenance manual for the house, how to take care of various aspects of it etc.

I was quite pleased with the pulley installation. For this I made an adjustable jig which cut both the initial recess so the pulley plate was flush as well as the through cut which the pulley wheel passes through. I used a trim router with bottom bearings and after some minor chisel work to clear the corners everything fitted great.

We also added weather stripping to our sashes which will cut down on drafts. I’ll also design these windows to take external storm windows which will be a big help in keeping in the heat during our cold winters. We used a pile weather strip on the side as this can withstand friction while at the bottom and top we’ll opt for tube-seal weather stripping. The weights are attached via chains, and are held to the sashes via spiral springs. If we were using cord then you’d tie a not in the cord and insert that into the hole.

There are a few more things I need to do such as installing it into the window buck, added trim so the sashes don’t fall out and we may even glaze them for practice. Hopefully we can start making the real windows soon.

Quality control of the windows was done by Aimee whilst humming a modified version of the classic American folk song by Verna Hills.

Sashes of the window go up and down
Up and down
Up and down…

I’ll get my coat…