Category: windows

Well, almost complete, still need to finish painting it, screw in the sash locks, lifts and pulleys, cut the glass and then glaze them. Even though this is my third window (first two were test windows) it still took a while, in part because I made a few jigs along the way (to help me replicate cuts in future windows) and I also made pretty detailed measurements so I can make accurate reproducible cuts.

I can’t stress enough how useful this digital height gauge was for recording and setting router bit height and distance from fence, with this I could easily dial in measurements to 0.1mm which is pretty damn good.

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We are painting all our windows with linseed oil paint from Sage Restoration, it’s more expensive than regular paint but has the following advantages,

• It’s environmentally friendly
• It allows the wood to breath. Currently modern paints aim to seal the wood against the elements, but if water gets behind it, it can’t easily escape which can cause decay.
• You don’t need to re-paint it, you can just paint on pure linseed oil every 5 years or so to nourish the wood

If you want to know more about linseed oil paint, this is an informative resource.

I’ve also heard that the reason that the old and dangerous lead paint was so durable was that it was basically a linseed oil paint with the lead added as a pigment and/or to reduce drying time. The history of lead paint can be found here on Wikipedia.

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For the first primer coat we mixed 50% linseed paint, 35% linseed oil and 15% pure pine turpentine. Some resource say you don’t need to thin the primer coat but it seems to make sense to me that a thinned coat will penetrate deeper into the wood. This isn’t the final colour as we’re still deciding that, though I think we’ll go with shades of green/blue, a lighter one for the sashes and a darker one for the frames or maybe the other way around, we can’t decide.

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As this goes to print I’m already working on the second window.

If anyone is wondering how our porch rebuild is going, it’s going slowly, mainly due to Andre not being able to fine suitable help, so if anyone knows someone who wants to learn about timber framing, reach out and you could learn from an expert and get paid for it!

For a while I’ve been trying to figure out how to transition the window frames, which will be set within the walls, to the inside of the framing, a distance which varies throughout the ground floor of between 6″ to 9″. I spoke with Don the Johnson and he thought of building this into the window frames and then just slotting them in, interesting idea and one which eventually led me to extending the window bucks out with 2×12″ pressure treated wood. I know it sounds confusing, but it makes sense when you see the pictures.

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We sanded the wood and filled any defect with epoxy putty as this pressure treated wood will eventually be a finished painted surface. You’ll notice that we decided to add a 45° angle to this so it will allow a bit more light in and improves the outside views from within. Like most things at DM nothing is straight forward, not much is square, parallel or level so making the beveled parts took quite a while. With one of these almost complete I’m thinking that the making of the actual sash windows will be pretty straight forward as they will be square. Looking forward to when I have one complete sash window under my belt.

The deep window sills will be great for house plants, glad we have them. By the way technically the window sill is the sloping part at the bottom of the window on the exterior side and what I’m referring to as the window sill is the the stool, but how many people know what a window stool is?

Despite common belief, the window sill is found on the outside of the home. Inside the home, the part of the window often called the “sill” is actually the stool. However, the stool is often described as the sill, even by window experts. As a result, it can be hard to tell which part of the window a person is referring to when the sill is being discussed.https://www.championwindow.com

Finally finished (ish) with out test sash window. It took a while but was worth making as we made quite a few mistakes and learnt a lot in the process. I won’t bore you with all the details so here are the basics.

First step was the windows bucks, these frames hold the windows and typically would be installed in a masonry wall. In a wooden structure the framing would form the window bucks. Note the tapered window sill, did we need it, not sure. The bucks, window frames and sashes were all assembled using my Dowelmax.

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The magnetic sash pockets worked out well and I hope future occupants of the house will appreciate them. In time I’ll probably write a maintenance manual for the house, how to take care of various aspects of it etc.

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I was quite pleased with the pulley installation. For this I made an adjustable jig which cut both the initial recess so the pulley plate was flush as well as the through cut which the pulley wheel passes through. I used a trim router with bottom bearings and after some minor chisel work to clear the corners everything fitted great.

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We also added weather stripping to our sashes which will cut down on drafts. I’ll also design these windows to take external storm windows which will be a big help in keeping in the heat during our cold winters. We used a pile weather strip on the side as this can withstand friction while at the bottom and top we’ll opt for tube-seal weather stripping. The weights are attached via chains, and are held to the sashes via spiral springs. If we were using cord then you’d tie a not in the cord and insert that into the hole.

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There are a few more things I need to do such as installing it into the window buck, added trim so the sashes don’t fall out and we may even glaze them for practice. Hopefully we can start making the real windows soon.

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Quality control of the windows was done by Aimee whilst humming a modified version of the classic American folk song by Verna Hills.

Sashes of the window go up and down
Up and down
Up and down…

I’ll get my coat…

You may have noticed that we haven’t done much work on the house recently. That’s because it’s been so cold here. With temperatures generally below freezing it’s not very inviting especially when it’s dark outside. We have been working on some side projects such as the toledo chairs, a bird table and our test sash window, for which I’ve been working on the sash/weight pocket.

So what is a sash/weight pocket?

If you look at the anatomy of a sash window (see first picture below) you’ll see counter weights on either side of the window. These weights are of a similar weight to the sashes they’re connected to thus making the windows easy to open and close. Sash pockets are the small removable panels on the lower jambs that allow you to access the weights for both sashes.

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So why do you need them? You’ve built and installed your windows and they work great, what could go wrong? Probably nothing for many decades, but one day you may have a problem, your sash cord may break or you maybe you decide to reglaze with heavier glass and need to add additional weights? This is where sash pockets come in handy as they give you access to the sash cord and weights. If you don’t have these pockets you’re going to have to use a pry bar to remove wooden trim which will take some time patching up.

Next time you’re in an old house with sash windows, open up the lower sash and see whether you can see the sash pocket, it will probably be painted over but you may be able to see the joints underneath the paint. Note, not all sash windows will have pockets but you can dig further yourself if you’re interested.

As you can see from the following videos making these pockets is a skill and if you get it wrong your sash pocket will look ugly. I’m not sure I have the skills to make these cuts accurately, so I decided to find an alternative method.

The method I decided upon was to make the window jamb from multiple pieces, this allowed me to create the sash pocket separately and use magnets to hold the pocket closed so I don’t have to use a screw. As we’ll be making these windows out of a dark coloured wood, you probably won’t even notice the pocket and all you need to open the sash is another strong magnet. All these joints were cut using a table saw and tenoning jig. When we are ready to start production of the real windows I’ll set up a production line and make a bunch of these at one time.

The only down side of these sash pockets is that the jambs need to be assembled from three pieces of wood instead of just the single bit. It’s a bit more effort but I feel the results are worth it as these pockets work and look great.

I think I will name these DM sash pockets.

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I got the magnets from KJ Magnetics which has been my go to place for strong neodymium magnets for years. What’s nice is that they have a pull force calculator so I knew that my two magnets placed 1/4″ apart would have a pull force of 1.7lbs which is more than I really need. I only have magnets at one end and these are held in place with West epoxy, again my go to for epoxy for decades. For small amounts I always use a gram scale to get the correct ratio.

This being the season of window making and the generousity of ARC, we did a window inventory. We knew they all needed a lot of TLC but when you see photographs of all of them you realise how much work this will take.

Pictures for each floor start from the left and rotate anti-clockwise.

Ground floor

Everything on this floor is missing or is pretty much trash.

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First floor

We actually have two windows that are fully operational. These are protected by the porch, hence their condition. A lot of our windows were shot with BB guns, shame as the glass was old wavy glass.

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Second floor

Most of these windows are exposed to the full brunt of the elements, hence they’re in most need of repair.

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Cupola/penthouse

The cupola will have nine windows which don’t currently exist, hence no pictures.

Summary

Within a short time we’ll be pretty proficient at making or restoring sash windows and it would be nice to offer some window making classes. We’d need our friend Derrick to be onboard as he has the historical and practical knowledge and is the person I go to when I get stuck. Just an idea.

Lastly anyone want to sponsor a window pane? Not sure what that would entail, but we’d let you look through it and open and close it!!! Maybe have your name tastefully etched onto the glass as well.

We’re excited to announce that we have a designer and manufacturer helping us with our sash windows. Bob, president of the Architectural Resource Center, has very kindly offered to help us source supplies for our sash windows. We were blown away by Bob’s generosity and it has truly touched Aimee and I and is one of the few highlights of 2020. We had a lovely chat with Bob on New Years eve and hope to meet him in person later this year.

As a bit of a background, Bob stated off in the military before becoming a wood working lecturer which he did so for 19 years before starting up the Architectural Resource Center in 1985. Since then the Architectural Resource Center has gone from strength to strength and has an impressive list of clients including the The Biltmore Estate, Carnegie Hall and the White House to name a few.

To give you an idea of the hardware required for one double hung window, you need:

• Four pulleys
• Four sash chains
• Four sets of sash weights
• One window lock
• One or two sash lifts

That’s a lot of hardware for a single window and multiplied by eight it adds up quickly and that’s just for the ground floor. The majority of this hardware is brass for longevity.

Thank you Bob for helping us make our windows work!!

In a previous post I mentioned that we need to make a bunch of windows for the ground floor. We’ve already cut the wood for the window bucks and we’ve now started on the window sashes. For this I’m using the Infinity window sash router kit with our lovely Incra router table.

For my first attempt I made a smallish lower sash out of scrap pine. After milling to size and cutting the stock to length I used the Dowelmax to create the dowel joints. You can see in one of the photos that the dowel holes aren’t centered, this is a ‘feature’ of the Dowelmax and is really only noticeable on thin stock. By the way the Dowelmax is a lovely bit of kit, it is pricey but it will outlast me.

The traditional joint in a window sash is the mortise and tenon and this joint probably allows the pieces of the sash to move slightly when the wood changes shape due to differing weather conditions, but as we’ll be using a wood less effected by the weather this probably doesn’t matter. An added advantage to using the Dowelmax is that Aimee is comfortable using it where as the mortise and tenon would require using the table saw.

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From the photos you can see that on the inside of the window the router bit cut an ogee profile and on the other side a rebate for glass and putty. As a first attempt I was pretty pleased, you can tell that the joint isn’t perfect but I’ll dial that in tomorrow.

Today I worked on getting a single sash joint near perfect and repeatable and I’m happy with how it turned. All we need to do now is to run through making the case that holds the sashes, weights and pulleys as this determines the sash size.

Throughout this work I will be relying on experts to guide us including Bob at ARC, friend Derrick and The Window Sash Bible by Steve Jordan.

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During this winter we’ll start making some sash windows for the ground floor. In total we have eight to make. This is a pretty big job as it’s not just the window sashes that have to be made but also the window bucks and the window cases/sash boxes that contain the pulleys and weights etc. We’ll do a trail run first to see how it goes and if that proves too hard then we’ll save up and pay someone.

We’ll use cheap pine for the first one we make as we’re bound to make mistakes and we don’t want to waste expensive wood. The final windows will be made out of a thermally modified wood. This heat treated wood is rot resistant and dimensionally stable (won’t warp much), it’s permanently resistant to water and it’s looks beautiful (think mahogany). The only downside is the cost, $8 – $10 a board foot but luckily I found Paul on craigslist who was selling some left over project wood for $4 a board foot. This is the second lot we’ve bought from Paul which he kindly delivered.

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Initially we had planned to use Accoya, which is another long lasting wood and possibly better than thermally modified wood, for the windows, however, it’s not that easy to get hold of it or as beautiful, that said we will probably use Accoya for the remaining windows in the house.

So the first thing we have do is to make the window bucks out of pressure treated wood. These aren’t visible when the window is complete so they don’t have to be fancy. We’ve cut all the wood to size and now they’re ready to be assembled for which we’ll be using the Dowel Max which looks a lovely bit of kit.